Anuradhapura was the island's capital for over a millennium and remains one of Buddhism's most important pilgrimage sites. Its scale is the point: enormous brick stupas, monastic cities, and the Sri Maha Bodhi, grown from a cutting of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment and tended continuously since the third century BCE.
This is not a museum piece. White-clad pilgrims walk the sacred precinct every day, and the atmosphere at the Ruwanwelisaya at dusk — oil lamps, lotus offerings, chanting — is the reason to come rather than the archaeology.
The site is far larger than Polonnaruwa and is best covered by car with a driver or by bicycle if you are used to heat. Allow a full day for the sacred city, the Abhayagiri and Jetavanarama complexes and the Isurumuniya rock temple.
The Sri Maha Bodhi is the oldest documented living tree planted by human hand anywhere in the world. Dress code is strict and cameras are restricted close to the terrace.
Anuradhapura is also the natural staging point for Wilpattu National Park, an hour to the west, and for the long run north to Jaffna.