Mirissa is the south coast's whale-watching harbour and its best-known crescent beach. Blue whales pass close to the continental shelf here between roughly November and April, and the village behind the bay has grown into a comfortable base for beach days, surf lessons at Weligama and sunset on Coconut Tree Hill.
Boats leave the fishery harbour around 6.30am for a three to five hour trip. Sightings of blue whales and spinner dolphins are common in season but never guaranteed, and the sea can be uncomfortable — take something for seasickness if you are prone to it.
Choose an operator that keeps its distance. Crowding and chasing whales is both stressful for the animals and against the guidelines; responsible boats stay back, cut engines and wait.
Weligama, ten minutes west, has a long sandy-bottomed beach break that is the best beginner surf in the country. Boards and lessons are available on the sand for very little.
Coconut Tree Hill at the eastern end of the bay is the photograph everyone comes for. Go at sunrise rather than sunset if you would like it to yourself.